Until yesterday I was staying with a couchsurfer in a small north Kyushu. She asked me how much I had payed for my train ticket from Fukuoka to her place and I told her: 5250 yen = ~55 USD for a two hour ride. Reply to comment on my last post: Yes local trains are cheap. Others are ridiculously expensive if you don't get a round trip or something.
The original reason I went to see this couchsurfer was because I was going to WWOOF on a farm near her place, but I had a kind of misunderstanding with those people and I decided to go to another farm down in Kagoshima, at the southern end of Kyushu island. After they agreed to let me stay there they sent me their address and I realized it's on a tiny island almost all the way to Okinawa, 15 hours by ferry from Kagoshima. That's not what I wanted. But alright then!
Anyway, this is what I was doing in Oita-ken.
So anyway, this girl told me that I would have to spend crazy amounts of money traveling like this (by train) and that I should hitchhike like some of her friends, because that's something that works really well in Japan apparently. I thought of changing my plans for the next day and try that instead, it seemed totally unreasonable considering the distance and things that could go wrong, and then I had to do it because it seemed so wild and exciting.
DETAILED STORY OF 13 HOURS OF HITCHHIKING FOLLOWS:
So last night I got myself a small whiteboard and a marker from a 100 yen shop, and the couchsurfing girl dropped me off near a major road on her way to work this morning. I wrote TOWARDS THE SOUTH with three big Japanese letters, held out my sign and my thumb and waited. First car picked me up after 40 minutes. It was a guy, 23 years old like me and very polite and tidy, who was on his way to watch Terminator 4 on his day off work. Alone, since he didn't have a girlfriend yet he told me. He was just going to Oita, maybe 15 minutes away, but went through the whole city for me and dropped me off on the other side.
I found a new place and after waiting for 30 minutes a 42 year old man picked me up. He told me he's only going a few kilometers in that direction and later I realized he didn't even need to go there but was doing this just for fun. He shared with me that he'd just confessed to a woman and got turned down. I asked what he had said; he had asked if she had a husband and she had replied "sumimasen" and then run away.
After trying for 30 minutes more without getting picked up, I walked to a Lawson store further down the road to confirm that I was standing on the right side of the road. It was already past 11 and I hadn't really gotten anywhere, hundreds of cars had refused to pick me up and I was hungry and thirsty. I had 300 kilometers left and 5-6 hours, this was not going well at all although it was really interesting. I got myself water, an
anpan and an
onigiri at Lawson and went back to the road. After 30 seconds a man dressed like your average homeless in Sweden came out and asked where I was going, and told me he was going halfway to Miyazaki and that one of my kanji characters was wrong! I said I would like to go with him even if he was going to that place in the middle of nowhere, because it looked like it would at least be along the main route. He then told me to wait for him to change car I was like
what??? I waited until he got back and got on. Then, after driving 10 meters he asked if I was interested in Japanese tea-something-something, I said "uh? yeah I guess maybe?" and he turned the car around and parked at his home, which was on the other side of the street from Lawson! Aha. He ran inside and came out with a bowl, a bag of
macha-tea, and the thing you need to prepare it and gave it to me as a gift. Sure, uh, thanks.
Hm.
We got going, I tried to be very polite first with proper Japanese, try to think of topics to talk about, offer some snacks I had brought and so on. It felt pretty awkward but I gradually got more relaxed and dropped the honorific Japanese after he told me that it's totally unnecessary and only some boring people care about it at workplaces and such. We then started having some really interesting conversations about everything.
We got to a place with a huge statue of a Japanese princess standing in the mountains, rising above the forest, and he suddenly turned to take me to its accompanying Buddhist temple. It was a beautiful place and I would never have found it otherwise. However I then hinted to my driver that I needed to be in Kagoshima before 5 pm to catch a ferry or I would have no idea what to do, and he was like hm I wonder how you can get you there on time and
decided to drive those 150 or 200 extra kilometers for me. I didn't understand this at first because it was of course unreasonable, but realized later along the way. I said that this wouldn't happen in Sweden, and he told me that well, a Japanese salary man couldn't do it either. I gradually found out that he was unemployed at the moment, seemingly surviving on whatever came his way, plumbing and selling miso and whatever.
On the way to Kagoshima he refused to let me pay for lunch and fees for entering the highway, totaling at 4,000 yen or so. We arrived in Kagoshima half an hour after the ferry had left, and spent 90 minutes or so driving between the mostly closed ports, trying to get information. We went back and forth and asked 15 people and I was totally helpless. I hadn't asked for all this and didn't know if I should try to be more responsible and suggest that I try to manage on my own or... But it didn't make sense because I wouldn't know what to do then and we both knew that so I shut up. There wasn't another ferry tonight so I am now stranded in Kagoshima. At about 8 pm it was dark and we went around the city looking for a cheap place to stay. There were no parking lots so I went to a place to check prices while he drove in circles, I left all my stuff in the car including passport and I didn't even know his name. I hesitated for a second which is probably reasonable under the circumstances, but he came back of course. We then said good bye, I said thanks, got my stuff and went to the internet café I had found. Apparently he was then going to keep driving to the west side of Kyushu to a place where they have some exotic kind of miso... I didn't quite get that part.
WHAT'S GOING ON RIGHT NOW:
I have called my farm on the island and apparently there's no ferry tomorrow, the next one is the night the day after tomorrow which means I'm stuck here for two whole days. I'm at an internet café which I need to describe further with some
( pictures )